Thirunelveli

A lunch conversation in the office prompted me to ink this article. The question from my colleague was, “How people from Thirunelveli District are very brilliant, hard working and occupying very high position in government and private sector?” This was a surprise for me as I had known my district only for the wrong reasons. To top it up I’m neither Intelligent nor occupying any high position!!   Having born and brought up in this district during my formative days, I have witnessed, Racism (Casteism), religious fanaticism, abject poverty, Music, Literature, Festivals, Kabbadi, Silambaattam, world class sculptures, Falls, largest temples, Tiger Reserve, World class Educational institutions  etc.,

 

It is a mixed feeling! I don’t know whether I should feel proud or ashamed for having born in this district. Thirunevli is most civilized on one side and the most barbaric on the other. The food and festivals on one side makes this place a heaven but unemployment and racism gives it a low score. My music classes with Mani Bhagwathar in the serene atmosphere are still a nostalgic feeling. Coconut palms and paddy fields surround the house while the quite Thamiraparani flows on the west. Tambura and harmonium giving the right scale, I fondly sang “Vilayaada Ithu Neerama” on lord Murugan! On the other side, because we as students were educating the peasants in the nearby village, we were warned not to bath at the other side of Thamiraparani where mostly the land lords and racists lived.  Untouchability  was evidenced.

 

The Iron Age settlements in and around the district tells us how historic this place is and how Tamil Language and Shivaism developed in this area.  Nellaiappar and Kaanthimathi amman temple in this historic town is a beauty to adore. Muthu Swamy Dixithar’s Sri Kanthimathim in “Hemavathi” Pann pays tribute to this temple deity.  For all those “Falls Lovers” Thirunelveli has the “Kuttraalam” falls which is thoroughly appreciated across the country.  Lush green Paddy fields in and around the perennial Thamaraparani river is a treat to the eyes. I need not even metion the Thirunelveli Halwa which is the Queen of Sweets!

 

Apart from Hinduism, Christianity and Islam have a considerable presence for several centuries in this district. One beauty about Christians and Muslims from these areas is that except for the change in name of the God they live and flourish as every other Thirunelveli Tamil is. Culturally there is hardly any differentiator unlike the city based folks.

 

This district also has the fame of housing all the four types of land as per Tamil grammar. Kurinchi, Mullai, Neythal and Paalai. Tamil Language has its rich heritage in this district, with foreigners like Caldwell, Fr. Beschi, Bartholomaeus, Miron, Julian, Hilko to name a few, devoted their life time studying and the contributing towards the classical language.

 

Historically, no foreign ruler reached this part of the country. Even the Mughals could not reach Thiruneveli which is in the extreme south. It is the British during 1800 took control over this area as a foreign government. Prior to that Nayaks(Telugu) ruled this part of the country.   Along with the British came world class educational institutions and their governance. Palayamcottai which is in the other side of Thamiraparani is fondly called as “The Oxford of Southern India” with its numerous schools and colleges.  After a troubled rule by the Nayaks, the natives had a relatively calm environment during the British rule. During the Nayaks rule, Tamil language and literature took a back seat. Till then Thirunelveli was the epitome of Tamil literature and culture with very less outside influence.  As a matter of policy British never interfered in the local customs and religion. (I confirmed this with the Thirukurungudi Temple priest who has met the British during his childhood days). This encouraged casteism and it thrived thoroughly in this area.  British never wanted to bring social reforms as their vested interest was to make quick money rather than to see any progress in the colonial country.  One could see violence around caste and creed still happening in this district. This is highly deplorable.

 

Due to the official negligence since the Indian Independence Thirunelveli is one of the back ward districts as per the “India Development Indicators”.  There is no airport; no port, no manufacturing plants apart from agriculture. As majority of the district lies in the rain shadow region of the Western Ghats, the local peasants are at the mercy of the monsoon. To escape the cruelty of unemployment and caste oppression, many have migrated to cities. That is one reason we may find a lot of Thirunelveli Tamils in the slums of Mumbai and in the shops of Chennai.  To escape poverty and give a decent life for their children Thirunelveli Tamils have gone places and established themselves in various fields. Even those who live in that district are gradually selling off their land to Malayalis from the neighboring state. Malayalam Actress Radha and Ambhika have acres of land between Eruvadi and Thirukurungudi both come under the Thirunelveli District just to name a few.

 

May be my colleague refers to those who escaped poverty and reached the cities and work hard and looks intelligent for her!! Those left there in the villages are still facing government negligence and racist oppression in one form or the other.  This story may look familiar for most districts across Asia.